9-Month Gush

As of July 6, 2013, I've been in this country for 9 months.  I can honestly say that it took me about 8 1/2 of those months to finally feel comfortable, adjusted, and content in my new home.  I can walk about without feeling like self-conscious, the villagers have gotten used to me, and I've gotten used to them.  After being here this long, here are some of my thoughts, observations, and feelings so far...

First off, I would have to say Vanuatu is probably one of the most gorgeous countries I have ever seen.  Being from Hawai'i I'm used to a tropical environment, but this place has a rugged beauty that is unique.  Waterfalls, lagoons, waterholes, beaches, etc. all seem to jump right out of scenes from "The Blue Lagoon".  I'm talking, I mean, it's ridiculous how beautiful this place is and I have barely even explored 1/100th of it.

The work.  I LUUUUUUUUV my job!

Teaching basic computers and applications to the kids is an amazing experience, as for them this is an all new adventure, and their energy energizes *me*.  Teaching computers to teachers has been interesting, as for them it's a scary monster that they are learning to tame.  Still need to do some documentation; a network diagram, an updated inventory list, acceptable use policy, etc. Being the sole tech supporty guy is also a challenge, but I love the fact that I have my own tech "empire" to do with as I please, to configure as I wish.  The work has been crazy because of the constant schedule changes, school closures due to a death in the village (and for a village as large as mine that can be quite often), inconsistent attendance, priority shifts, etc.  It's been crazy, tiring, frustrating, exciting, wonderful, rewarding, excruciating, stressful and relaxing all rolled up into one big emotional rubberband ball.  I am truly happy with what I'm doing, and once I complete the curricula for the year I will be able to spend more time working on my secondary projects and polishing up the stuff here in preparation for the next PCV who will come after I leave.

But the thing I want to focus on the most is the people...after all it's the people that make a country what it is.  Called Ni-Vans (short for "Ni-Vanuatu"), the people here are truly some of the friendliest people ever.  Random people would wave hello when you walk down the street. A bus driver would stop his bus on the side of the road to buy a sack of "gato" (basically frybread) and pass them out to the passengers on a whim...and people accept it like it's a normal everyday thing. A 5-minute small-talk with a stranger would inevitably lead to swapping phone numbers, inviting you over for kava and to go visit their homes for some food.  Small talk with a bus driver would result in him giving you a bunch of bananas.  It feels good to hear a random kid from my school, who isn't even a student of mine, yell out "Mista Ken! Mista Ken!" when they see me walking around. A little embarrassing though haha.

I would be walking to a bus stop in my village and some random guy would be on a "wokabaot", he smiles hello I say hello back, he asks me where I'm going, I tell him, and soon he's waiting at the bus stop with me, chatting me up.  After about 10 minutes of chit-chat the bus comes, and he invites me to his sister's wedding in a few days.

Simple. I think I just made a friend.

And when they hear you are in the Peace Corps, they are amazed and grateful at how someone would be willing to come to their little country, live among them for two years, learn their language, and help to better themselves and their lives.  I have never met a people so accepting of outsiders living among them, so shy when it comes to expressing themselves publicly yet so outgoing when sharing a laugh.

This rampant friendliness took some getting used to, and it's still hard not to feel a little weirded out by it, especially when I get recognized by someone who I had a conversation with for 3 minutes like two months ago.  I would be walking in the city, and they call out to me, and say "hey, mi no luk yu long taem! Yu gud?!" (hey, I haven't seen you for a long time, are you good?).  Of course I turn on my fakey-familiarity tone and act like "yeah good seeing you again" blah blah.  This has happened to me more times than I can count.  Being from Hawai'i, we have the "Aloha Spirit" as well, but I feel it's been tempered by American culture somewhat.  It's kind of nice to know that there is still such a strong support system here, that you are instantly "one of us" just because you're a human being, and help is only a handshake away.

On the one hand, however, part of me misses some of that anonymity of just being an anonymous stranger in a crowd, minding my own business.  But then again, I do see a stark contrast when I see the wealthy Australian tourists in Port Vila.  They're friendly, sure, but when they say "hello" it feels like it's from a place of formality, rather than from the HEART as it is when you talk to a Ni-Van.  So then I gravitate back to the Ni-Van way of living.

Alot of this friendliness and brotherly love that is so easily and openly expressed is wonderful, but it also scares me.  I'm scared for THEM.  There is an innocense and naivite among the people here that is unquestionably endearing, but could also bite them in the ass if they aren't careful.  As they become more open to ouside influences and they start to reap their rewards, the dark side of these influences also inevitably encroach into their world as well...drugs, alcohol abuse, stress, violence, materialism, STIs, etc. are already rearing its ugly head.  And the people here do the best they can to deal with it the way they know how; using traditional practices such as community-based intervention, "Sorry" ceremonies, etc. to try to minimize the damage that these influences may bring.  The problem with this approach is that it focuses on the symptoms without dealing with the underlying problems head-on: education, corruption, a national lack of self-esteem...

Oh God the self-esteem issues.  I have heard SO MANY TIMES about how "Black Man" (themselves) are incapable of doing what "White Man" (the rest of us) can do.  When a Ni-Van commits a crime, for example, it's because he's a "black man", never mind what socio-economic issues may have contributed to the person doing what he did!

There's a saying: "When so many people are trying to help you, you start to feel kinda helpless."

And that's what I see happening here...there are so many international aid organizations at work here...Peace Corps, Aus Aid, China Aid, JICA, missionaries, tourists from Australia visiting villages (including mine) to donate money and supplies.  While their hearts may be in the right place (and I include the Peace Corps in this criticism), it has created a culture of dependancy here, a thinking among the Ni-Vans that they can't do anything unless "Waet Man" gives it to them or does it for them.  Even the majority of the businesses in this country are owned by outsiders, not them.  They never look to their own people when they need a solution, they look to *us* first.  A fellow volunteer even told me how she had heard someone say that they want to follow the "Waet Man" into Heaven.

*Head Desk*

I really feel that the change in attitude and feelings of self-worth need to come from a deliberate attempt country-wide.This needs to be encouraged by their leaders; community leaders, village Chiefs, the government.  The ultimate goal for all of us outsider organizations should be to put ourselves out of business...that one day, this country won't need us anymore. That's what I hope to impart in my own small way...to show them what they are capable of, that they can possess the tools to do great things on their OWN.  That we "Waet Man" are no better than they are, that "Black Man" are just as capable, just as worthy of making a trip to Heaven without riding on our coat-tails.

I want those kids who call me "Mista Ken" to know that "Mista Ken" is not a celebrity, but just another guy, like them. I have my flaws, insecurities and weaknesses, just as they do.  And that in many ways, they are better than I could ever be.  The world needs countries like this, people like these. There is so much Ni-Vans can contribute to the world, to teach us things at a human-level.

I guess I'm starting to fall in love with this country.



But I still hate kava.

Signing off til nex time,

Aloha and a hui hou :)